Osteria Nero D’avola

Via San Domenico de Guzman, 2B

Bourdain ate: white olives, abalone served raw in the shell, baby sardines, tuna tartare, pasta with fennel

Dinner dates: Tomaso (a local) and his wife

Trattoria Piccolo Napoli

Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4

Bourdain ate: panelli (fritter made from chickpeas), caponata (sweet and sour eggplant), spaghetti al nero di seppia (spaghetti in cuttlefish ink), casarecce al pescespada (pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomatoes)

Lunch date: Mary Taylor Simeti, food writer and author of On Persephone’s Island: a Sicilian Journal

Lunch at the house of Tomaso’s mother

Bourdain ate: caponata; bread and tomato salad; shrimp sautéed in garlic, butter, and herbs; sardines fillet sautéed in garlic, oil, and red pepper

Lunch dates: Tomaso and his mother

Monaci delle Terre Nere

Via Monaci

Bourdain ate: penne with sun-dried tomatoes and zucchini, rabbit in olive oil

Dinner dates: Guido Alessandro, owner of Monaci delle Terre Nere