Synopsis: Acclaimed chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud takes Bourdain on a tour through his hometown of Lyon, France, a city that is home to some of the country’s most influential chefs, including Paul Bocuse. Boulud and Bourdain’s exploration of France’s culinary capital includes visiting fine dining locations La Maison Troisgros and Paul Bocuse Restaurant, as well as local bouchons (traditional Lyonnaise restaurants) and a school cafeteria.
On Bouldoud’s early years in the kitchen:
Boulud: “At 14 years old, [in] 1969, I started as an apprentice in Lyon. … They used to call me “the Beaver” because I was just washing everything all day.” Bourdain: “Fourteen? You can’t do that anymore, can you?”
Boulud: “I don’t think you can make him work 12 hours a day and pay him maybe a buck a month.” Bourdain: “Ah, the good ol’ days.”
On cooking poulet en vessie, which involves a pig bladder:
Boulud: “The most miserable thing is when the bladder explodes.” Bourdain: “It’s never a good thing when the bladder explodes.”
Boulud: “You have to talk to your bladder.” Bourdain: “I do all the time, believe me. Please hold up, please hold up. Not here, people are looking. Wait ’til you get in between two cars.”
On French school lunches:
“This is a very sophisticated meal for children. I was a little s**t in school, frankly, and like a lot of the other students I wanted pizza, pizza, pizza.”
On duck hunting:
“If you look long enough, you start hallucinating. You start hallucinating ducks where there aren’t any.”
Guests weigh in:
Bill Buford (former New Yorker fiction editor who has lived in Lyon for several years): “Lyon is a dark, tragic, beautiful, well-eating city, and everyone here knows that they have a really good life. And they don’t give a flying … fig if anyone else knows about it. They don’t actually want visitors.”
Bourdain: “In my school lunchroom you pushed up your tray just like you’re in prison and bap! bap!” Boulud: “They come to you and serve you. The most important thing we see here is the love Marie gives to the food she makes and the kids she serves. I think it has a lot to do with the reaction they have to food.”