Bourdain’s Field Notes

The first time I went to Sri Lanka, 10 years ago, nobody talked—not about the important things. Not about the elephant in the room; what was obvious everywhere you looked: roadblocks, armed soldiers, a machine gun emplacement at the hotel.

There was a war going on, a long, bloody, incredibly cruel ethnic war with unspeakable acts of violence and terror on both sides. But I saw only one side. My crew and I were restricted to the south, to the area controlled by the Sinhalese majority.

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