Explore the lesser‑known Naha

Still, Naha is seldom considered a destination unto itself. It generally serves as a jumping-off point for tourism centered around the small islands and pristine beaches across the Japanese archipelago. Amid the neon kitsch of Kokusaidori, however, a younger generation of Okinawans has begun to open unique establishments. Here’s where to enjoy the best of this complex city’s charm.

Where to caffeinate: Mahou Coffee

Located on the outskirts of the Makishi Public Market, this library-like space produces high-quality coffee under the supervision of owner and “drippist” Akio Yamazaki. The beans here are roasted locally at a facility just a few miles away in the Sakaemachi neighborhood.

Mahou Coffee

Where to eat Spam: Pork Tamago Onigiri Honten

Okinawans have an abiding love for Spam, a remnant of the lean post-World War II years. The humble meat product is served in onigiri (rice ball) form at Pork Tamago Onigiri Honten, which is also a short walk from the main drag of Kokusaidori and the Makishi Public Market. With a menu that features a selection of hefty, seaweed-wrapped goodness in varieties such as mustard-green-with-tuna and fried tofu, miso, and Spam, you’ll have plenty to choose from.

Pork Tamago Onigiri Honten

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Where to buy unique gifts: Garb Domingo

There is so much more to Naha’s retail scene than souvenirs. Sticking within the Makishi Public Market radius, start at Garb Domingo for more modern Okinawan ceramics and housewares than you’ll find in the stores that dot the Tsuboya Pottery District.  

Garb Domingo

Where to eat fresh fish: Makishi Public Market

Dive back into the Makishi maze to find the fish market. Smaller and more laid-back than the sprawling seafood temples of Tokyo and Hakodate, Makishi’s vendors sell you no less beautiful products—either to take home or to be prepared in-house at any in the series of small restaurants on the second floor of the market.  

Makishi Fish Market

Where to buy records: RC Records

Head to RC Records for rare vinyl that leans heavily toward soul, punk, rockabilly, and Japanese garage rock. Bonus: It’s right around the corner from Mahou Coffee, in case you need an espresso shot before digging through crates for hard-to-find albums.

RC Records

Where to eat meat skewers: Arakoya

Skip the steakhouses and teppanyaki joints that dot Kokusaidori and head to the low-slung strip of mama-san bars and karaoke joints known as Sakaemachi. Amid the cubbyholes and late-night drinking establishments, you’ll find Arakoya, a shrine to grilled skewers of local Okinawan pork, beef, and lamb. Ask for omakase: This will get you a selection of delicious flame-kissed morsels just begging to be washed down with frosty Orion beer.  

Arakoya

Where to drink: Utagoe Kissa Haru-Chan

Around the corner from Arakoya, highballs and karaoke await at Utagoe Kissa Haru-Chan. This small second-floor bar serves a younger crowd than most of the mama-san joints in the area. The star of its show is owner Haru Tsukino, who keeps the party going late—and has an exceptional voice.

Utagoe Kissa Haru’s Bar