10 Pushkin Street, Yerevan
+374 10 561354
Bourdain ate: braised lamb shank with rice pilaf (“This is what my soul needed”), vegetable manti.
Mariam Movsisyan’s grandmother’s family home
Bourdain ate: ghapama (traditional dish consisting of a baked pumpkin or squash stuffed with rice, nuts, raisins, and apricots), Armenian cheese and lavash, hummus.
Dinner dates: Miriam, her husband Nazareth Seferian, her grandmother, and Serj Tankian.
35b Tumanyan Street, Yerevan
+374 10 530320
Bourdain had: apricot vodka, trout wrapped and baked in lavash (“this is not light cooking”).
Lunch dates: Serj Tankian, Marie Lou and Pegor Papazian, educators and founders of the progressive TUMO Center for Creative Technologies.
72 Aram Street, Yerevan
+374 96 870870
Bourdain had: a couple pints of beer.
Beer dates: Tech journalist Artur Papayan, developer Harut Martirosyan, and cybersecurity consultant Ruben Muradyan.
Somewhere in the wilderness of Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh), near Jdrduz Canyon in Shushi
Bourdain ate: jingalov hats (“lavash bread stuffed with greens and onions before being toasted atop a cast-iron sheet”), Armenian barbecue covered in fennel and fresh herbs (“meat on a stick, which, let’s face it, is always good”).
Lunch dates: Tigran Grigoryan, a war veteran and aspiring politician; Tatul Hakobyan, a journalist; Saro Saryan, an Armenian born in Azerbaijan who fled during the war.
Jivani Street, 75 building, Gyumri
+374 31 234511
Bourdain had: beer; oxtail soup; stewed liver and heart with tomato, onions, and fresh herbs; sheep’s head.
Lunch dates: Gyumri natives Anush Ghazaryan, Gayane Araqelyan, and Amalya Yeghoyan.
Milena’s home restaurant
Bourdain ate: khash (stock flavored by roasted-beef bones) with lavash.
Lunch dates: Serj Tankian’s longtime manager and friend George Tonikian, Milena, restauranteur Sam Hovhannisyan, journalistArman Suleymanyan, and their friends Inna Mkrtchyan, Samvel Hovhannisyan, Samvel Machanyan, Razmik Arzooian, Narek Aghababyan, and Anahit Chitchyan.